Estée Lauder makeup maestro Tom Pecheux coined the term propre décalé to describe the girl at Derek Lam: “She’s a university student who is proper but also a little twisted—there’s something about her that’s a bit off,” he said. To convey this subtle “naughtiness,” Pecheux crafted a smoky eye that spilled over onto the lower lash line.
Hair also contained a hint of the unexpected, thanks to 1960s-inspired texture: coiffeur Orlando Pita created a teased, pinned-back look on behalf of Phyto Professional and Beauty.com. “It’s a girl who doesn’t follow all the rules,” he says. “After blow-drying the hair with Phyto Intense Volume Mousse, I’m using a curling iron for extra texture and teasing with Phyto Fiber Paste.”
“I wasn’t in the chair that long,” insists model Daphne Groeneveld when asked about her faux bob. Off the runway, though, she prefers to wear her platinum locks sleek and straight. “My hair is really long—I got it cut a little bit and I was like, that’s enough!”
Arizona Muse, on the other hand, embraces short hair. “My hair is so short, it’s not even long enough to be a bob,” she laughs. Realizing this, Pita says he purposely gave short-haired models like Muse “a spikier version of the hairstyle.”
Of course, this decision didn’t come without some trial and error. “They teased my hair initially, but then they decided it didn’t work,” recalls Muse. “When my hair was teased, someone told me it looked like I’d stuck my finger in a light socket! So we went back to hair and fixed it.”