Chicago-based designers Shane Gabier and Chris Peters have officially caught the fashion world’s attention. Guests at the duo’s Creatures of the Wind presentation packed tightly under the Desmond Tutu Center’s vaulted ceiling last night to catch a glimpse of their waxed leather circle skirts and metallic jacquard cropped pants.
The 24-look collection stayed true to the brand’s DNA — “We really love color, we really love texture, and we really love patterns together,” Gabier noted after the show — but it also explored new territory. A first foray into eveningwear produced a floor-sweeping, tiered mint chiffon dress, which Gabier would love to see on Kirsten Dunst: “She really epitomizes [the brand].” But, he adds, “We try to keep that open, limiting it to one specific girl. I think PJ Harvey would look really fantastic in it, too.” The label’s knitwear offering was expanded upon (pale blue mohair sweaters! cashmere dresses!), and Gabier and Peters tried their hand at a full shoe collaboration, producing point-toed metallic cut-out boots with Tabitha Simmons, who Gabier calls “the best collaborator ever.” And staying true to their Second City roots, the pork pie hats which topped off many of the looks were done with Chicago-based millinery Optimo Hats.
The string that tied all of these elements together? A fixation on Scottish clergyman Robert Kirk’s 1691 expose, The Secret Commonwealth: Of Elves, Fauns, and Fairies, and the doorway between the real world and the fairy world. “It’s always about atmosphere, that’s always kind of our starting point,” Gabier explained.