Dirt is the word on the sixth day of New York Fashion Week. Its inspiring makeup artists across the city, most of whom have also abandoned mascara and mussed up their models’ hair for a savage turn down the runway.
We knew that Zoolander would influence real fashion someday! Remember Mugatu? His Derelicte collection? Well dirt really is “so hot right now.” Referencing the Australian outback on Tuesday backstage at Rodarte, James Kaliardos for Nars created a dirt-inspired eye using bronze tones to temper accents of bubblegum pink in the corners of the eyes achieved with Gaiety Blush. A similar soil-inspired style rocked the runway at Rachel Roy. Makeup maven Bobbi Brown used her upcoming Caviar and Oyster Eye Palette, “the color of dirt,” explained Brown. With it, she created an earthy smoky eye and a natural-toned lip. One of the nail colors used at Rachel Roy was Essie Carry On, a burgundy brown. Dirt digits also reigned at Pamela Love, as well where nails were painted a sort of ombre dirty by layering Essie’s Little Brown Dress below As Gold As It Gets, so that the polishes were more concentrated at the tips.
While loads of ashes is an oft-observed Fashion Week trend, this year, makeup artists have a lighter hand when it comes to mascara. At Bibhu Mohapatra, Maybelline’s Gato Zamora used a gossamer cream white shadow, pairing it with a deep red lip for pop forgoing lash definition. Charlotte Tilbury for M.A.C. Cosmetics created a blue Avatar-inspired eye look at Prabal Gurung, skipping lash lengtheners entirely. Similarly, Diane Kendal for Nars used natural shadow and liner sans mascara at Thakoon, also skipping the product in favor of a bold red lip; her cosmetic concept backstage at Alexander Wang focused on bold brows and highlighted cheekbones, playing down the eyes and lip. And at Altuzarra, Tom Pecheux eschewed backstage staples mascara and foundation in favor of copious amounts of black eyeliner that led from the inner corner of the eye up and out to show some skin in between another line closer to the base of the lid.
‘Dos that wouldn’t be out of place on a feral child—and yet boast a strange aura of glamour—are trending for fall 2012. Vera Wang’s windswept, over-sized updos, created by Fekkai, sashayed down her runway while Custo Barcelona’s models rocked a nest of elaborate fishtails artfully arranged into an imperfect pinned up hairstyle. Finally, at Preen, Aveda’s Paul Hanlon swept hair atop the head in a style that defied gravity.