Zebra prints and leather miniskirts mingled together in Sharon Wauchob’s “safari punk”-inspired Edun collection. As the label’s co-founder Ali Hewson explained the theme of the season: “Really what Sharon has done is tried to—because she’s fallen in love with Africa, as we all have—just take the nature elements from that [continent], and translate the wild side of nature into a contemporary place, so you get that ’80s punkish feel with safari prints.” The graphic black and white pullover knits were made by the Crochet Sisters, a group of Kenyan artisan nuns, and metallic foil mesh added a modern-cum-’80s element to skirts and outerwear.
The “thought of a woman that can manipulate to get what she wants” stuck out in Cioci’s mind for fall, so she took the idea of manipulation and ran with it. Furs were sliced up and then sewn back together on silk to make a lightweight coat; leathers were washed to enhance texture; and a snakeskin was manipulated into a print stamped on pants. The designer was most proud of her gowns, however: “They’re a little more intricate. I like working with my hands, and I love things that are a labor of love.” She named up-and-coming actress Britt Marling—a close friend and someone she “grew up with”—as her gown-wearer of choice: “It’d be really great to see her in one of my dresses.”
A year into designing his own label (after working with brands like Isaac Mizrahi for Target, Gap, and Ann Taylor for fifteen years), Tawfik Mounayer is quite the pragmatist: “I understand that at the end of the day, women just have to walk into a store and want to buy something. I’m not a fine artist, I’m a commercial artist.” But that doesn’t stop him from a little whimsy. Bird motifs carried throughout the collection in a hand-drawn feather print, a pheasant “status” print complete with chains and tassels, and even feather-like paillettes on a sweater.