“Darker, grander, more dramatic” was Gordon’s mantra for fall. “I love light and fresh and feminine for spring,” he explained. “But for fall, I wanted her to have a little more attitude.” Which is why he used the phrase “Rooney Mara as Great Expectations‘ Estella.” Translation: emerald scarf tops paired with floor-length embroidered velvet trumpet skirts and chainmail tanks. As for his ideal wearer of the collection? Rooney Mara, obviously.
Victoria Bartlett’s fluid fall collection was appropriately inspired by the choreography of dancer Michael Clark, specifically, Mmm. The movement-centric pieces were draped, twisted, and wrapped around the body in a palette dominated by grey, black, and nude (punctuated by plum and turmeric).
One design conundrum Antonoff saddled herself with this season? The cute sweatshirt. “[It] was definitely a departure, but I realized that I wear them a lot, and I love them, so there must be a way to take something that you wear while at home while watching TV, and make it something you could wear out in a cute way.” The result is heather gray and emblazoned with a reference to Bye Bye Byrdie. The designer also tried her hand at embroidery this season, covering an ivory dress in what she termed a “fuzzy wuzzy” pattern and a black dress in multicolored “chiclets.”
After a taking road trip through Nevada last Summer, designer Rachel Walters came back with the inspiration for her debut fashion show: the desert sunset, rock formations, and the colors of the desert. Gold leather and copper pants were a standout piece, and an arrowhead print dress was a throwback to her Kentucky childhood. “There was a tribe that I lived nearby, and I used to collect arrowheads on my father’s farm,” Walters added.