“It’s as if you crossed a ’50s Barbie doll with a Geisha,” says M.A.C makeup guru Kabuki of the dramatic cat-eyes and red lacquered lips at Zac Posen’s show. To highlight eyes, Kabuki contoured lids with white pencil liner and light-brown sculpting shadow. He then lined the upper and lower lash lines with black kohl liner, drawing the edges out at the far corners. For a “juicy mouth,” he outlined lips with liner before adding lipstick and a dab of gloss at the center.
Coiffeur Luigi Murenu, John Frieda’s global creative consultant, also drew from the Japanese influence in Posen’s collection. “It’s something a Geisha punk goddess would wear,” he says of the updo. Shiny, lacquered hair and a sculpted roll provided the Geisha element, while sharp spikes “created a punk feeling.” To craft the look, Murenu blow-dried strands with John Frieda Frizz-Ease Sheer Solution and pulled them into a tight ponytail, securing it with black bondage tape. Next, he teased, rolled, and pinned the pony into a sleek, off-center chignon. Finally, he tucked two pre-cut hair extensions—coated with gel and flat-ironed to paper-thin proportions—into the chignon.
So what does model Tanya Dziahileva (pictured above) think of the final hair-and-makeup combo? “I love it,” she enthuses. “It’s going to look stunning with the clothes.” After seeing her on the runway, we’d have to agree!